Searching for new waves is always a risk. It's easy to fall back on previously shot locations with the safety of coming home with something to showcase.

I had my eye on a little patch of reef shown to me on a map, by an old abalone fisherman at a pub … (read more)

Searching for new waves is always a risk. It's easy to fall back on previously shot locations with the safety of coming home with something to showcase.

I had my eye on a little patch of reef shown to me on a map, by an old abalone fisherman at a pub in a sleepy little town. He swore to me you could fit a bus inside some of the waves he had seen break out there. So I took the story of a complete stranger, and on the next promising forecast, went all in.

This was the first wave that I had my camera ready for. From the depths this wave, one like I had never seen before, showed its face in this amazing form.